After having climbed Sang neuf, I had 1 climbing day left. Sébastien Richard suggested that I could try to link Sang neuf 9a with the 25 meter second pitch of Home sweet home 8c/+ and I accepted the challenge.
After a rest day I climbed Sang neuf 9a again but this time I did not stop at the chain, but climbed on to the chain of Home sweet home.
This new route is now called Sweet neuf: Sang neuf & Home sweet home combined. ?
Climbing Sweet neuf 9a+
This 15 meter project in Pierrot beach (Vercors, France) was bolted by Quentin Chastagnier.
I had first tried the route in April 2016, but had had to abandon it due to extremely cold weather. At that time my mother had filmed me while I was climbing, so that in case I came back, I would remember the movements.
And the hard work I had done last year payed off! I came back this year and did the first ascent on September 4th.
Climbing Sang neuf – 9a
Right after the world cup in Briançon, I had a little time to enjoy nature and climb on rock for one day. I went to the beautiful crag of Entraygues and chose a route named ‘San Ku Kai’ as my project.
The circumstances that day weren’t perfect, but since I had only 1 day at the crag, I wanted to do my very best to top it. And it payed off!
I was able to climb the route in my very last attempt of the day! ?
I’m not sure about the grade of San Ku Kai.
I’ve been told that it was a 9a before, that it has been downgraded to 8c+/9a and that it might be an 8c+ now, due to a broken hold (which has created a better hold).
With Solid Rock Climbers for Christ – January 2017:
With Sport 40 – June 2017 – In my mother tongue Flemish (Dutch):
Somewhere in the middle of my preparation for the upcoming season, I took a little break from training and headed to France for a few days of rock climbing.
I had hoped to get a lot of sun on my face while being in the south of France, but instead I had to battle a lot of cold and windy days, wet holds and even a heavy thunderstorm right when I was climbing. Most of the time my down jacket was one of my best friends. 😉
Amazed by this rainbow which came after the storm
Despite the difficult conditions, I was able to do some hard climbs and I could return home with a thankful heart.
I didn’t do any onsight climbing during the trip. Every time I tried a route, I worked it out first and then did an attempt.
In Saint Léger du Ventoux:
- Rêve de poutre 8c – 1st attempt
- Le Nabab 8b+ – 1st attempt
- Idéal chimérique 8c/+ – 1st attempt (probably first female ascent)
- Le concept 8b+ – 2nd attempt
In Les Auberts:
- L’émêché 8c – 1st attempt (1st female ascent; new route opened by Guillaume Lebret)
Check out this nice article on Grimper.com (in French) by Seb Richard. Thanks Seb for the pictures!
L’émêché 8c in Les Aubert, Drôme region
Climbing Le Concept in Saint Léger du Ventoux
After the World Cup Lead in Xiamen/China (silver medal) Anak went on a short rocktrip to Siurana in Spain.
It was the first time she visited this crag.
After working out the complex moves of the famous route La Reina Mora-8c+/9a for a few days she was able to climb the route in the first attempt.
She then went on to work out El Rastro-8c+. On the first attempt she missed the dyno move halfway the route.
Despite another 1.5 hours of daylight she could not do another attempt because of the cold winter conditions and the violent northern wind.
The next day she climbed past all the difficult moves and nearly had the route topped when a crucial hold broke out. Despite this very disappointing experience she cleaned the area where the hold broke out, tried out the ‘new’ movement and decided to give El rastro another go even though she felt exhausted.
She then topped the route (FFA), enduring the very cold conditions. She returned home feeling very grateful, because this had been the last possible attempt before the journey was over.
More pictures from Sébastien Richard are available in HD.
Anak in La Reina Mora 8c+/9a
Anak in El Rastro 8c+