This year the Belgian Youth Championship was held in Altitude CCM in Braine-l’Alleud near Waterloo. Several years ago, when I was still a Youth C climber, I had climbed my first Belgian Championship in this climbing hall.
Chloé Caulier and I topped both qualification routes, the first one quite short and technical and the other one having a more overhanging part and small holds.
During the observation I read the final route with Chloé and we both were not sure how to climb a strange looking section, a big volume which seemed to lack holds. Our final route had orange holds (in Belgium we have 10 groups climbing at the same time, so we climb on colours).
Chloé and me reading the final route (Photo: Cuypers)
After having warmed up and discussed the route with Celine Cuypers and Elfe Claes, both Youth B but climbing the same final route, it was my turn to climb. The beginning of the route was not too hard, there was only one tricky move just before the overhang and then there it was: the big volume.
Eventually, the moves on the volume were strange but climbable just as we had read it, and then there was a rest at the top of the volume. When I wanted to continue I discovered that the next 2 holds were really bad. I searched for some time and I finally managed to do the move by making a heelhook with my left foot on the volume. The next part was difficult too with small holds, but I managed to climb to the second last hold which was an impossible sloper. I decided to jump to the last hold and I was super happy that I could grab the last hold!
The jump to the last hold (Photo: Cuypers)
Chloé climbed up to the confusing part just past the volume and ended up 2nd. Margot Verhaeren was 3rd. My Youth B friend Celine climbed very well, she managed to touch the last hold and won in her age group.
Celine at the tricky part (Photo: Cuypers)
My friend Pavitra Vandenhoven (Youth B) participated again in the Paraclimbing competition and topped both qualification and final routes! Amazing! The final route was really hard and the routesetter did not think she would be able to top out.
Sébastien Berthe is now too old to compete in youth competitions, but he did a good job by demonstrating the routes, in his cycling shorts 🙂 and being a funny speaker. We now have our own Christopher in Belgium 😉
Saturday 2 February 2013: the 2nd competition of the Belgian Youth Cup in Arlon.
Chloé and I topped our qualification routes. We had a very technical final route with some tricky moves and small holds. I was very happy that I managed to top out.
Celine Cuypers (female youth B) had the same route as me. She topped out too and ended up 1st. My friend Pavitra Vandenhoven (female youth B) was very strong in the paraclimbing competition!
Having lunch with Pavitra in the Landrover of the Cuypers family
This year it was the first time in the climbing history that a European Youth Chamionship was held. It took place in Gémozac (France) and our cheerful Belgian team was present with not less than 17 climbers.
On Saturday the qualifications of the A and Junior categories started early in the morning. My first route was technical with very small holds. I found it difficult and tricky and I was very happy that I managed to top the route. To my surprise the other one was built on the speed wall which made it very technical as well. Together with twelve other girls I could top the route.
Photo: Thibaud Caulier
Five Belgian climbers made it to the finals: Chloé Caulier (female youth A), Émilie Guérit (female Juniors), Loïc Timmermans (male youth A), Sébastien Berthe (male Juniors) and me! That was already a great achievement! Unfortunately our youth B climbers were not able to reach the finals. My friend Celine Cuypers (female youth B) had to climb the same qualification routes as me. They were both very technical on vertical walls which was not nice for a competition. She was nervous because of the routes and it is a pitty that she ended up 19th although she is an incredibly strong climber.
The finals were on the same day in the evening. When waiting in the call zone we could hear the cheers of the public for Ana Tiripa (GER) which meant she climbed super well and topped the final route. Just before me Jessica Pilz (AUT) topped too and then it was my turn to climb. Although I did not find a rest in the middle of the route, I managed to top out! I ended up 3rd because of the new time-rule for European youth competitions, but I was still very happy and thankful with my place. Ana was 2nd and Jessica was 1st! Congratulations!
Photo: Thibaud Caulier
Loïc Timmermans climbed a fantastic final and became European Champion! Émilie and Sébastien both ended up 10th and Chloé 9th. The Belgian team had a 5th place in the teamranking!
My parents and I left on Wednesday 4 July. We drove to La Chambotte in France.
La Chambotte (July 5th and 6th)
In Easter holidays my friend Julia Chanourdie and her family showed us this beautiful climbing area. They also showed me an 8b named ‘Tartine’. I did not succeed in doing it in Easter holidays so I wanted to try it again. On Thursday I worked it out again and I did some attempts. In the last attempt I fell really at the end. That evening we went swimming in the lake ‘Lac du Bourget’.
Lac du Bourget
The next day I first warmed up and than I did an attempt. I fell again just at the end. Then I did another attempt and I could top it! I was so happy and thankful!
Tartine 8b
Col de Marocaz (July 8th and 9th)
The Chanourdie family also told us about a climbing area called ‘Col de Marocaz’. On the rest day we drove to this place and we discovered a very nice lake called ‘Lac de la Thuile’.
Lac de la Thuile
The next day we first went swimming because ‘Col de Marocaz’ is an afternoon crag. I worked out ‘Ta mère sur un spit de 8’ 8a. I could climb it in the second attempt.
A big bird we saw
On Monday we also climbed there and I tried ‘Une émeraude en or ‘ 8a+. It begins with a 7b and then there are some very hard moves on small holds. I fell 2 times there and it started to get late. I did one more attempt and I was really happy that I could top it!
A little mouse who was 'stealing' our bread
On Tuesday and Wednesday we had rest days in preparation for the worldcup in Chamonix. We drove to a climbing area called ‘Les Garins’. In the guidebook was written that you had to drive up on a dirt road until you see a parking place. It was really funny (and quite dangerous) because the road was very bad. Luckily my father made it up to the parking place which was maybe good for 2 cars. Then we searched for the rocks and finally we found a path. It was quite adventurous.
On Wednesday we had a look at ‘Grotte de Banches’ which is a nice climbing area for Summer. We also went swimming in ‘Lac d’Annecy’ and then we drove to Chamonix.
Worldcup Chamonix (July 12th and 13th)
On the Thursday I could do my first worldcup in Chamonix! See: news Chamonix!
The competition wall at the WC in Chamonix
On Saturday we went again to ‘Col de Marocaz’. I could climb ‘Tête de bite’ 7c. My father climbed this 7c too! I also tried ‘Une bite sur ma tête’ 8a+. It is quite short with small holds. I could climb it in the first attempt.
Col de Marocaz
The next day it was by birthday! In the morning we searched for a nice French market and we found one! Watermelon, olives, earrings, dresses, bread, … I really like this! We also bought some artisanal nougat which tasted very well. We drove on to a lake where my parents gave me presents and we took a fresh dive. At the end of the day we ate pizza which was made in a small chalet in the centre of Gab. Then we drove on to Céuse.
The lake at my birthday
Céuse (July 16th and 17th)
On Monday we climbed in Céuse. I had never been there before and it was very nice! We met a lot of competition climbers like Ana Tiripa from Germany, Sasha Digiulian, Jacquelyn Wu and Sarah from the USA, Tina Johnsen Hafsaas from Norway, Rebekka Stotz, Katherine Choong and Franz Krakenberger from Switzerland, Matilda Söderlund from Sweden, …! It was great to see so many people there! I climbed ‘Lapinerie’ 7b with Ana (she is in my age group) and together we worked out ‘Sueurs froides’ 8a+ which was very hard. I did a lot of attempts and I always fell in the beginning of the route. At the last attempt I was very tired but I could top it and it was so nice that Sasha and the others cheered me on!
In 'Sueurs Froides' 8a+
The view from Céuse
We climbed in Céuse for another day. I tried to work out ‘Dures Limites’ an 8c Sasha was doing but this was too hard for me! I worked out ‘Bourinator’ 8a. I did some attempts and I could climb it in the last attempt of that day!
Céuse
The next day we took a rest day and we drove to a small lake near ‘Ailefroide’ in ‘Les Écrins’. We already knew this place which is fantastic for swimming and campfire!
At the lake
Tournoux (July 19th and 20th)
On Thursday 19 July we drove to a climbing area called ‘Tournoux’. There are crags which are near the road, but also ones which are higher up. We walked up but it was a bit dangerous and not very easy to reach. I worked out ‘Clin d’oeil au paradis d’en face’ 8c but there were 3 moves I couldn’t do. I decided to leave the quickdraws and try again the next day. I also climbed ‘Into the wild’ 7b+.
Tournoux
Friday we went to this crag again and I tried the 8c again but the moves were not possible for me so I took the quickdraws down. I worked out an 8a+ but the weather changed and it started raining very hard. I did another 7c and when we walked back to our van the rain had stopped.
Rue des Masques (July 21st)
In Tournoux we had heard from climbers about ‘Rue des Masques’ (conglomerate). The next day we went there and we met Christophe Depotter from Belgium with his family. It is a beautiful climbing area also for kids! Then I worked out ‘Racing in the street’ 8b with the
help of French climbers. I liked the route and I did 3 attempts.
Racing in the street 8b
On Sunday we had a nice day with the climbing family Lemière from Belgium at the lake! We had lunch together and played a lot in the water.
Swimming in the lake
On Monday 23 July we climbed again at Rue des Masques. We met a climbing team from Germany with David Firnenburgh, Mia and Laura! My mother climbed a 7b on sight! I climbed ‘La Truite’ 7c. I did an attempt in the 8b and I managed to do it! I worked out ‘L’age en décomposition’ 8a+ which was really great. I could climb it in the second attempt and I was very happy! I had never climbed an 8b and an 8a+ on the same day.
Rue des Masques
The next day I could climb ‘Le druide en goguette’ 7c on sight and I worked out ‘Carosse et citrouilles’ 8a. I climbed it in the first attempt.
Wednesday was a rest day for me, but my parents climbed in Rue des Masques. We also went supporting the Youth A girls who were competing at the boulder EYC in l’Argentière. In the afternoon we drove to Italy because my father had to be jury president in Val Daone for a speed worldcup.
Climbing in Arco Terra Promessa and Massone (July 26th-29th)
We went to ‘Terra Promessa’ and I climbed ‘Progetto Caty ‘ 7c in the first attempt. I also worked out an 8a+ but it was not so nice and I could not do all the moves. We left the climbing area because the sun was coming and we passed ‘Massone’. We decided to climb there and I worked out ‘Fuego’ 8b with the help of 2 climbers from Switzerland. I did an attempt not being sure I would be able to do it the first go. I could do the first part and also the dyno. Then I started thinking that I could do it after all. I climbed on and managed to do the top part. I topped the route and I was so happy and thankful!
The Swiss guys had also told us that you can walk from the campsite to this climbing area. That was great for when my father would be at the competition so that my mother and I could easily come to this crag!
On Friday we had a rest day and we visited the beautiful town of Arco. It was very nice and, of course, we ate pizza and ‘gelatti’! We also brought my father to the competition in Val Daone.
In Arco
The castle of Arco
The next day my mother and I climbed again in ‘Massone’. We had a nice walk from the campsite to the crag among the olive trees. I climbed ‘Fly Trap’ 7a+ and ‘Big spender’ 7b+. I tried to work out an 8c but it was too hard. On Wednesday I worked out ‘Super Maratona’ 8b. I could do all the moves but I found it very difficult. I did an attempt and I fell in the crux.
On the rest day we drove to a climbing hall in Bolzano/Bozen (Salewa Cube). We climbed there 2 days to train for the EYC in Imst. It is a great climbing hall which is half outside! We met Stefano Ghisolfi, his girlfriend Frederica Mingolla and his sister Claudia Ghisolfi who is in my age group!
The climbing hall 'Salewa Cube'
After the competition in Imst we drove back home to our little cat and her kittens!
