15 October 2017
“A time to weep and a time to laugh,
a time to mourn and a time to dance…”
The Xiamen world cup became a time to smile. A gold medal! ?
Here it is…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5wjYi362Oo&feature=youtu.be
Video by Sébastien Richard.
Music by David Charrier: www.handpandavid.com
The 6-minute rule strikes again…
Like most other female athletes, I was running out of time in the final.
The only thing I could do, was quickly make some more moves. Rushing like that, my feet came off and I fell, having about 2 seconds and a lot of power left.
Photo made during the qualification round by Eddie Fowke.
After having climbed Sang neuf, I had 1 climbing day left. Sébastien Richard suggested that I could try to link Sang neuf 9a with the 25 meter second pitch of Home sweet home 8c/+ and I accepted the challenge.
After a rest day I climbed Sang neuf 9a again but this time I did not stop at the chain, but climbed on to the chain of Home sweet home.
This new route is now called Sweet neuf: Sang neuf & Home sweet home combined. ?
This 15 meter project in Pierrot beach (Vercors, France) was bolted by Quentin Chastagnier.
I had first tried the route in April 2016, but had had to abandon it due to extremely cold weather. At that time my mother had filmed me while I was climbing, so that in case I came back, I would remember the movements.
And the hard work I had done last year payed off! I came back this year and did the first ascent on September 4th.
The world cup in Arco (Italy) on August 25th and 26th was a very disappointing experience. In the final route I didn’t think about moving my left toehook a bit higher on a volume and I couldn’t reach the next hold. I fell there, having lots of strength left, but realizing that the comp was over. I became 6th.
Jain won the competition, Anne-Sophie was 2nd (her first world cup podium!) and Janja 3rd.