Monthly Archives: August 2017

San Ku Kai, 8c+

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Right after the world cup in Briançon, I had a little time to enjoy nature and climb on rock for one day. I went to the beautiful crag of Entraygues and chose a route named ‘San Ku Kai’ as my project.
The circumstances that day weren’t perfect, but since I had only 1 day at the crag, I wanted to do my very best to top it. And it payed off!
I was able to climb the route in my very last attempt of the day! ?

I’m not sure about the grade of San Ku Kai.
I’ve been told that it was a 9a before, that it has been downgraded to 8c+/9a and that it might be an 8c+ now, due to a broken hold (which has created a better hold).

World Cup in Briançon

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2nd place for me during the 3rd Lead World Cup of the year in Briançon, France.

The qualifcations and semifinal went well for Jain Kim (KOR), Janja Garbret (SLO and me since we topped all 3 routes.

The final route was nice and pumpy and I was glad I smoothly passed the overhanging section. Clipping the last quickdraw before the top cost me a bit too much energy and I couldn’t grab the next holds as precisely as I would have liked. I fell one move lower than Janja who won the competition. Jain became 3rd.

Congrats to Romain Desgranges, Sean McColl and Stefano Ghisolfi for being the male medalists.

Worldgames in Poland

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On July 23th I won the gold medal during the Worldgames in Wrocław.
The podium with Janja Garnbret (SLO) and Julia Chanourdie (FRA) was decided by countback to the qualification round, because the 3 of us fell at the same move.

When I fell I wasn’t tired yet, but the way I tried to go on was just impossible. I knew this, but I could’t change anything about it since I hadn’t noticed a hold on the left. It was placed on a big volume and was impossible to be seen by the climbers from underneath during the 6-minute observation time.

But it turned out to be enough for the victory and I’m grateful for that! 🙂

It was a nice experience to be at such a big event and to meet other top athletes from non-olympic sports.